Zacatecas
At 8,200 feet, Zacatecas is way the fuck up there, settled in the crotch of two mountain ranges, the furry mound between the legs of the Sierra Madre Oriental and the Sierra Madre Occidental. The air is thin and dry, choking my lungs during exercise and constantly giving birth to crusty boogers in my nostrils. Amidst the chill of the morning, the clouds stroke the tips of the mountains. But when they are swept away in the afternoon, a deep azure reveals itself and the sun stings one´s face due to its proximity.
The city was the site of a great battle during one of the many wars afflicting Mexico in the 19th century. The details of the fight are foreign to me, except that I know it is not uncommon to find skulls, corpses, and swords in the dirt on the side of the mountains, macabre tokens of the great skirmish. And I hear there is buried treasure still to be found in the city. No joke.
I live in the cushy neighborhood of Bernardez, out of the way of the main city and everything else exciting. It is a 30 minute walk to get anywhere interesting, but really the only way to get to the action is by car or taxi.
Unlike in America, where the traffic system succeeds only by everyone playing by the rules at all times, no one in Mexico obeys the laws of the road. Drivers are offensive, and the streets are littered with large, dangerous chunks of garbage. The police hardly ever enforce the law, and when they do, one is expected to simply bribe them with a few dozen pesos to rectify the crime. The fact that crashes are few is astounding. It is frightening, yes, but exhilarating if you ask me.
The city is truly gorgeous to see at night, as yellow globules jiggle on the mountainside, while the beautiful baroque architecture of the downtown area stimulates the intellect. I rarely get a chance to visit the town center, but I go at every possible opportunity in hopes of catching a glimpse of the city´s glorious bustle.
So far, Spanish and my timid digestive system are the only thing standing in the way of my success here. Look out world!
The city was the site of a great battle during one of the many wars afflicting Mexico in the 19th century. The details of the fight are foreign to me, except that I know it is not uncommon to find skulls, corpses, and swords in the dirt on the side of the mountains, macabre tokens of the great skirmish. And I hear there is buried treasure still to be found in the city. No joke.
I live in the cushy neighborhood of Bernardez, out of the way of the main city and everything else exciting. It is a 30 minute walk to get anywhere interesting, but really the only way to get to the action is by car or taxi.
Unlike in America, where the traffic system succeeds only by everyone playing by the rules at all times, no one in Mexico obeys the laws of the road. Drivers are offensive, and the streets are littered with large, dangerous chunks of garbage. The police hardly ever enforce the law, and when they do, one is expected to simply bribe them with a few dozen pesos to rectify the crime. The fact that crashes are few is astounding. It is frightening, yes, but exhilarating if you ask me.
The city is truly gorgeous to see at night, as yellow globules jiggle on the mountainside, while the beautiful baroque architecture of the downtown area stimulates the intellect. I rarely get a chance to visit the town center, but I go at every possible opportunity in hopes of catching a glimpse of the city´s glorious bustle.
So far, Spanish and my timid digestive system are the only thing standing in the way of my success here. Look out world!
posted by MYW at 11:06 AM
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